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Hidden in the forests of Cary, North Carolina, just a short drive from our home near Raleigh, lies a luxurious five-star retreat that feels like another universe away from the daily grind.
The Umstead Hotel and Spa doesn’t flaunt its luxury. It lacks stunning ocean views or gleaming city skylines, and it doesn’t offer every high-tech gadget available.
Rather, it exudes a subtle elegance that gently draws you into a peaceful woodland atmosphere, encouraging you to disconnect and unwind.
We were excited to finally escape our hectic lives and enjoy the refined tranquility of the Umstead for an overnight getaway, leaving the kids to take care of themselves. (Welcome to our new chapter of traveling without our teenage kids, who prefer their own space!)
Overview of Umstead Hotel and Spa
The Umstead Hotel and Spa is situated in Cary, just a quick 15-minute drive from downtown Raleigh and 10 minutes from Research Triangle Park in Durham and RDU International Airport.
Even though it’s close to the vibrant activities and attractions in Raleigh, it remains incredibly tranquil, set on 12 acres of serene lakeside grounds with stunning views of the Umstead State Park forest.
The establishment features 150 luxurious suites and guest rooms and has earned accolades from AAA as a Five-Diamond property, as well as being recognized by Condé Nast Traveler as the third-best hotel in the country.
Forbes Travel Guide awarded the hotel, along with its restaurant and spa, a Five-Star rating—the highest possible recognition from them.
Remarkably, it is the only hotel in North Carolina with a Forbes five-star rating and one of the few worldwide to hold triple five-star status.
A space where luxury is understated
We’ve visited many luxury hotels around the world, but The Umstead provides a rare experience: a gradual and profound sense of wonder.
Instead of an extravagant entrance or a dazzling chandelier, the Umstead Hotel & Spa instantly communicates its values: the appreciation of art and local culture.
The lobby features a beautiful floral arrangement that changes every week, skillfully created by the nearby Watered Garden Florist.
Upon arrival, we were welcomed by a breathtaking floral display that resembled a piece of living art — with gentle colors, graceful curves, and a delightful natural scent that beckoned me to take a deep breath.
This was an ideal first impression: a quiet homage to beauty, nature, and local craftsmanship.
These thoughtful details persisted throughout our visit — from being escorted to the elevator upon check-in, to a refreshing juice shot in the morning, a delightful tart to commence dinner, and chocolates on our pillows during turndown — all contributing to an ambiance of serene sophistication.
The Umstead prioritizes the little things. Its mid-century modern design, characterized by sleek lines and natural elements, induces a tranquil atmosphere that encourages you to take your time and enjoy the environment.
It’s uncommon for me to be charmed by a hotel’s architecture, but The Umstead truly enchanted me.
Its design possesses a classic elegance that feels both grounded and elevated — stylish without being ostentatious, and unmistakably refined.
This aspect adds an additional layer of allure to the hotel and prompts thoughts of returning before you have even checked out.
What We Loved About Our Stay at Umstead Hotel and Spa
On the day we finally arrived for our long-anticipated stay at Umstead Hotel and Spa, dark clouds loomed overhead and rain poured down.
However, any seasoned traveler knows that joy often comes from embracing nature’s elements.
We decided to see the rain as an opportunity to indulge in the luxurious spa — where hot tubs, saunas, steam rooms, and softly lit lounges worked their wonders.
But as we began the check-in process, the sun started to peek through, and we exclaimed, “let’s save that sauna for tomorrow!” We were determined to enjoy the day relaxing by the pool.
1. The Umstead Pool
Relaxing in the unexpected sunshine by the pool, surrounded by trees and tranquility, felt like a true blessing.
Catching the reason I was so enamored with The Umstead’s pool is tricky, but I’ll give it a shot.
There’s a tranquil charm to it—a soothing ambiance that stems from the towering trees, giving the impression that nature is nurturing your relaxation.
Being there felt like lounging in a luxurious treehouse, suspended between the sky and the earth.
And if your wallet permits, a private cabana could elevate your relaxation to an even more lavish experience.
We rarely spend long hours by the pool, but that’s precisely what we did.
The water was just right, and the peaceful atmosphere kept us from leaving. Plus, if you’re in the mood for warmer waters, there’s a cozy hot tub in the pool area!
Our attentive servers delivered fresh salads, complimentary watermelon slices, and crafted cocktails directly to our lounge chairs, enhancing our experience while allowing us to relax in peace.
The next morning, we returned to our favorite spot by the pool, soaking in the sun’s warmth until the afternoon storms arrived, perfectly timed for our next indulgence: the spa. It was another instance of impeccable timing.
2. The Umstead Spa: An Authentic Five-Star Experience
The Umstead Spa offers numerous high-quality spa services and luxurious treatments suitable for any season or weather condition!
With a strict no-phone policy (which felt refreshing), it resembles a modern interpretation of the ancient Roman baths.
The experience includes lounge chairs, infused water, cucumber snacks, and serenity—pure, sweet serenity.
You can choose to mingle in the communal areas or retreat to the women-only sanctuary, which is where I cherished my rare moments of “me time.”
Next visit, we’ll definitely schedule massages. For now, it was enough to simply relax, enjoying the whirlpools, steam rooms, and saunas. Facials and manicures are also available, along with complimentary yoga sessions on weekends.
Unfortunately, due to the rain, I couldn’t experience the tranquil meditation courtyard this time. #nexttime
If you’re planning for a five-star experience at the Umstead Spa, ensure to allocate sufficient time to enjoy the amenities both before and after your treatments.
3. Our Room at Umstead
The Umstead Hotel and Spa features 150 spacious guest accommodations, but when selecting your room type, be sure to choose one with…
A balcony.
Though the balcony was modest in size, it swiftly became our favorite area in our suite. It provided a sweeping view that beautifully showcased the resort’s charm: the peaceful swimming pool tucked away among the trees, the perfectly manicured garden, the classy outdoor dining terrace, and the serene lake featuring a soothing fountain.
The hotel has a variety of room options to choose from, but if you’re indulging in a stay at a luxurious five-star hotel, make sure you book a room that includes a balcony.
Having your own private spot to appreciate the tranquil beauty of the grounds is truly delightful, especially with a glass of wine at sunset or a morning espresso.
4. Dining at Herons: A Blend of Art, Culinary Delights, and Serene Elegance
Each dish is a tribute to the season, with a menu designed by James Beard semifinalist James Greene, featuring ingredients from local sources and accompanied by thoughtful storytelling.
Even the lamb, succulent and rich, came from a farm in North Carolina, not far away.
It’s noteworthy that many of the vegetables and herbs used in the dishes are grown on the hotel’s own farm located just a mile away! This is what makes dining at Herons so exceptional — the freshness is hard to beat!
I’ve never had an experience quite like this, and now I understand why many locals choose Herons for their most important celebrations.
From the moment you’re seated, the enchantment starts — not just with the food you order, but also with thoughtful extras: delicate amuse-bouches, palate-cleansing intermissions, and sweet treats like petit fours and house-made macarons to conclude your dining experience.
It’s a generous and elegant experience, with every bite leaving a lasting impression.
Our four-course meal became a delightful showcase of spring: oysters from Harkers Island, a creamy fennel soup with Dungeness crab, buttery sea scallops, Maine lobster, tender lamb paired with a delightful slice of lamb belly (acting like gourmet bacon), and wagyu beef that just dissolved in your mouth.
The dessert was presented like a masterpiece—a rich chocolate ganache paired with a stunning deconstructed panna cotta featuring fresh strawberries.
The sauces were presented with flair, poured at the table while being explained in detail, allowing you to appreciate each ingredient fully.
The service we received was exemplary—our servers were knowledgeable, attentive, and truly enthusiastic about the exceptional culinary offerings.
The sommelier was eager to share his passion for Australian wines, which we also adore, and matched our meal with a remarkable bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River. Their extensive wine list features selections from around the world, ensuring you’ll find something you love.
The elegance of the dining experience extends beyond the cuisine; the dining room boasts an open kitchen, comfortable seating, and large windows that let in plenty of natural light.
Don’t let the culinary experience stop at dinner. In the morning, enjoy a relaxed breakfast on Herons’ terrace, soaking in the sunshine and garden views.
I savored a French-style omelet filled with chorizo, sugar snap peas, and local cheese; it was truly delicious.
Craig’s avocado toast, garnished with English peas, radish, goat cheese, and pistachios, was a wonderful blend of textures and flavors.
Once again, the service exceeded expectations—attentive and friendly, embodying the local warmth that made us feel perfectly comfortable.
5. The Lobby Lounge
The Umstead features a bar and lounge area perfect for lunch, snacks, coffee, cocktails, and afternoon tea, often accompanied by live performances in the evenings.
The only downside during our visit was the lattes and cappuccinos we ordered at the lounge; they were not worth the high price and didn’t meet our expectations. Long-time readers will know we’re particular about our coffee as Australians. However, the black coffee and Nespresso offered in the rooms were excellent!
6. A Chance to Reconnect with Nature and Each Other
During our two-day stay, we immersed ourselves in what The Umstead excels at: encouraging a slower pace to help you reconnect with both your partner and yourself.
We enjoyed a glass of Vasse Felix Cabernet from Margaret River on our balcony as the moon illuminated the treetops.
In the morning, the sounds of birds filled the air while we sipped Nespresso and observed squirrels frolicking in the branches and the gentle shimmer of the fountain in the nearby lake.
This place is truly a haven of peace, deliberately designed as such.
The Umstead Hotel and Spa guides you along a serene journey infused with art, nature, and wellness.
Set against the backdrop of towering Carolina pines, the property overlooks a tranquil three-acre lake, featuring fountains that reflect the gentle cadence of the surrounding nature.
For those wanting to deepen their bond with nature, the hotel is ideally situated…
Adjacent to the famous Umstead State Park—one of North Carolina’s premier outdoor destinations, featuring expansive wooded paths for hiking, biking, and peaceful contemplation.
It’s a smooth shift from luxurious comfort to untouched nature, allowing you to venture beyond the hotel’s serene boundaries if your spirit soars for adventure.
The trail wound through a delightful butterfly garden—though, amusingly, the butterflies were absent during our visit.
We chose a calming stroll along the hotel’s quarter-mile lake trail instead of a more intense outdoor experience. Honestly, it turned out to be much more enjoyable than I anticipated.
Nevertheless, we were surrounded by gnarled, fairy-tale-like trees, colorful spring blooms wherever we looked, and a quaint wooden walkway that took us to a hidden fountain, not easily spotted from the hotel grounds. We were delighted by the sight of the vibrant Australian native red bottlebrush brightening the forest!
The nature trail at Umstead felt like a secret sanctuary created just for us.
A leisurely walk was perfect for our overnight wellness getaway—but not everyone was taking it easy.
I observed one visitor energetically running laps around the trail early in the day, clearly invigorated by the fresh air and stunning views.
If jogging or walking isn’t your preference, the hotel has a fully-equipped fitness center available, complete with all necessary equipment for exercise, stretching, and working up a sweat.
Alternatively, take advantage of the complimentary bike rentals to explore the vast trails within nearby Umstead State Park.
Whether you’re seeking an adrenaline-filled workout or a leisurely ride through the woods, The Umstead caters to your wellness desires.
Conclusion
Having visited luxury resorts across six continents, The Umstead Hotel and Spa reminded us that true luxury travel is less about opulence and more about intentional experiences. It’s about finding stillness, taking a deep breath, and enjoying a glass of wine under the stars.
Ultimately, it’s about the feelings a place evokes.
During our stay, I felt a profound reconnection to nature, presence, and gratitude—elements I didn’t realize I had been lacking.
In a fast-paced world, The Umstead allowed me the chance to slow down and simply be.
When life’s chaos re-emerges, and I feel myself getting overwhelmed, I know I won’t need a long journey or an elaborate retreat.
I can just drive ten minutes to this peaceful sanctuary, where my spirit can relax and regain its balance.
Our stay and dinner were generously hosted by The Umstead Hotel; however, I received no financial compensation related to this blog post, and all opinions expressed are my own!
